Are Silicones Really That Bad For Your Hair? We Asked a Professional

Welcome to my very first PS column, From the DMs. My name is David Lopez, and I've worked as a celebrity hairstylist, content creator, and creative director for over 15 years. Every month, I'll dive into some of the most frequently asked questions I get about beauty and wellness. If there's one thing I want you to keep in mind, it's that there's no one-size-fits-all approach to beauty. My goal is to give you real, honest answers that not only support you on your journey to feeling good but also keep it real.

My first edition kicks off with a question I get asked a lot: "Are silicones really bad for my hair?"

Picture this: the year was 2001, and I begged my dad for a relaxer to straighten my curly hair. (I will never forget how his face flushed with second hand embarrassment as his 13-year-old son walked out of the salon with a fresh, bouncy blowout). After that, there wasn't a force on earth that could pry John Frieda's Frizz-Ease Serum ($14) from my hands. If I didn't look like a Backstreet Boy or Jonathan Taylor Thomas, I didn't want it. Then, seemingly overnight, the natural hair movement hit, fueled by books like "Curly Girl: The Handbook" and the rise of online curly community forums, which claimed that silicones were the cause of dry, dull hair.

Suddenly silicones became the enemy of anyone trying to embrace their curly, coily, and kinky hair everywhere. Soon enough, we were all side-eyeing our beloved, silicone-laced serums, convinced they were to blame for all our hair problems, like dryness, lack of shine, and stubborn buildup.

So, what exactly are silicones and why are they often found in hair-care products? Silicones, including the popular dimethicone, are synthetic polymers that create a protective coating around the hair shaft. They're used in everything from conditioners to serums because they give hair that silky, shiny, and smooth feel we all love. But are they really bad for your hair?

Generally speaking, no, silicones haven't been shown to directly cause hair damage. In fact, they are generally safe for hair and can offer some protective benefits since they coat the hair shaft, which can lock in moisture and provide a barrier against heat and all the other things we put our hair through. Everything from daily brushing and detangling, going to bed with wet hair, and yanking hair ties out of your hair aren't doing your hair goals any favors. This can help hair feel smoother, reduce frizz, ease detangling, and give it a shinier appearance.

Now, here's where things get a little more nuanced. Like many things in life, too much of a good thing can wreak havoc. The potential issue with silicones is not about direct damage but rather what they do to your hair over time. Remember, silicones work by building a fortress around your hair strand, which doesn't easily dissolve. While it's true that silicones lock moisture in, this barrier can also lock moisture out, especially from external conditioning treatments. If there's a thick layer of silicone sitting on the surface of your hair, your conditioner might not penetrate effectively, leading to dryness over time. Have you ever seen the way water beads off a freshly waxed surface? This is what is happening with your hair.

During the rise of the natural hair movement, we also saw the demonization of sulfates (a type of foaming agent), which help effectively remove those layers of silicone. Without a thorough cleanse, these layers of silicone are not being properly removed from the hair and start to accumulate. This buildup can make your hair feel heavy, greasy, or limp. Curly people know this when their hair is just not giving what it needs to give, it usually means they're due for a good old-fashioned shampoo.

Does that mean you should ditch silicones altogether? Not necessarily. It's really a matter of preference and what works best for your hair type and styling routine. For many people, especially those with curly or frizz-prone hair, the benefits of silicones far outweigh the downsides. For those with fine hair or those who do minimal heat styling to their hair, you might not need them.

But here's the tea: If you love the way your hair looks and feels with silicone-based products, then keep using them. Continue to look for buildup and maintain a balanced hair-care routine, including the occasional use of clarifying shampoos, to make sure that the benefits of silicones are maximized without leading to potential drawbacks like dryness, heaviness, or dullness. Natural oils are a great alternative for a silicone-free lifestyle but know that it will also come with its own drawbacks. For example, coconut oil, a popular and easily accessible ingredient, is made up of molecules too large to penetrate lower porosity hair, which can lead to greasiness and clogged pores. Brands like Innersense, Shea Moisture, Aveda, and Briogeo have incredible silicone-free formulations.

There is something else to note here: most silicones, including dimethicone, are not water-soluble, which means they do not dissolve in water and are not biodegradable. They are synthetic polymers that hang around in the environment because they do not break down easily under natural conditions. So while they have science-backed benefits for the hair, I also feel a responsibility to disclose the environmental impact of these ingredients. More recently, cosmetic chemists have been exploring formulations with more eco-friendly silicones that offer some level of biodegradability and are more water-soluble (meaning, they rinse more easily from the hair). This is just something else to consider when deciding whether or not to use silicones in your hair-care routine.

Ultimately, the choice to use silicones comes down to your individual needs and preferences. For some, avoiding them entirely is the way to go, especially if you're following the "curly girl method" or have particularly fine hair. For others, silicones might be a valuable part of your hair-care routine. Whatever you choose, remember that healthy hair is all about balance. Pay attention to how your hair responds to new products or ingredients, experiment with what works for you, and don't be afraid to switch things up when it's no longer serving you.

I hope this helps inform your next beauty purchase and, most importantly, helps you find something that makes you feel good.

Until next time, be well, and always remember to stay kind to yourself and others.

Big hug,
David

From the DMs is a monthly column where professional hairstylist David Lopez answers your most pressing beauty questions. Have a topic you want addressed? Drop them a message on Instagram or email them at FromtheDMswithDavid@davidlopezbeauty.com, and let's keep the conversation going.