Hold Up: Is Air-Drying Actually Better For Your Hair? Hairstylists Weigh in

Raise your hand if your hairstylist has ever told you that heat styling is a one-way ticket to unnecessary damage. This means, along with avoiding straighteners and curling irons, you should air-dry your hair to keep it as healthy as possible, right? Well, that might not be the case. In a now-viral TikTok, cosmetic chemist Javon Ford purports that new studies illustrate that using diffused heat to dry hair is actually less damaging than air-drying.

If this information goes against everything stylists have told you for, well, ever, you're not alone. Does air-drying actually damage hair? Is it time to pick up your hair dryer and perfect your at-home blowout skills? Don't worry — we have all the answers. PS spoke with two professional hairstylists to get to the bottom of this and figure out once and for all if air-drying your hair isn't as beneficial as we once thought.

Experts Featured in This Article

Marc Ballance is a celebrity hairstylist at IGK salon in New York City.

Mia Santiago is a celebrity hairstylist and founder of Headspace by Mia in Columbus, Ohio.

Does Air-Drying Hair Cause Damage?

According to celebrity hairstylist Marc Ballance, wet hair is more fragile than dry. Essentially, water destabilizes the protein bonds that hold hair together, which makes it more susceptible to stretching and breakage. Have you ever noticed how brushing wet hair or tying it up results in extra shedding, more so than when it's dry? I's not a coincidence.

Celebrity hairstylist Mia Santiago adds that the longer hair stays wet, the more prone it is to damage. AKA those with thicker, coarser hair that naturally holds extra water are even more at risk of breakage.

The issues don't stop at your ends, either. "Wet hair can lead to excessive moisture on the scalp, which can lead to irritation or dandruff," Ballance says. However, if air-drying works for you, you don't have to completely change your routine. The key is creating a method that works for your hair and needs. More on that below, but first. . .

Is Blow-Drying Hair Healthy?

There is a way to blow-dry your hair that reduces damage and keeps it healthy — and it all lies in the technique. The number one rule? Use a low to medium heat setting and keep the airflow moving. "Don't focus on one section of hair for too long," says Santiago. "This will lessen heat damage."

The study pinpoints the exact distance at which you should hold the dryer: at least 15 centimeters away. Ballance also recommends angling the dryer down as you work. This seals the cuticle and smooths your hair in the process to reduce frizz and produce a silky effect.

Using a diffuser also lessens damage because it disperses the hot air across a larger area, which helps hair dry faster and more evenly. While diffusers are often marketed toward those with curly hair, anyone can benefit from drying their hair with one — especially if you have fine hair for an extra volume boost.

Regardless of your approach to drying your hair, experts emphasize the importance of using a heat protectant, like the Bumble and Bumble Hairdresser's Invisible Oil Heat/UV Protective Primer ($34), to prevent any damage from heat styling.

What's the Best Way to Air-Dry Hair?

Let us be clear: you can still have healthy hair if you air-dry your hair. Utilizing the correct products will help strengthen ends and give you the best results. Ballance first recommends swapping your regular towel for a microfiber towel, like the Kitsch Microfiber Hair Towel ($23). Standard bath towels can be too rough on hair. "Using a microfiber towel will keep the hair cuticle flat and reduce the amount of knots you have," he says.

Once hair isn't sopping wet, gently detangle with a brush and then apply an air styling product designed to enhance your natural texture, boost shine, and reduce frizz. Santiago suggests the Ouai Air Dry Foam ($28) or the Living Proof StyleLab Air-Dry Styling Cream ($34).

Ultimately, whether you air-dry or blow-dry your hair is a personal preference, and one isn't necessarily better than the other as long as you use the right method. "There's a great benefit to both; try them each out to see what works best for you," says Santiago.

Mary Honkus is a freelance writer with over six years of experience covering beauty, food, fashion, home, and wellness. Since graduating from the Fashion Institute of Technology in 2019, she has held staff positions at People, Real Simple, and InStyle, and her work can be found in Cosmopolitan, Prevention, WWD, Glamour, CNN, Forbes, Teen Vogue, and more.