Indian designer Rahul Mishra on going global with Tod's collaboration

While Indian designer Rahul Mishra's design aesthetic, centring on exquisite embroidery and a mastery of colour, seems at odds with the sleek neutrality of Italian house Tod's, the two share a commitment to timeless quality and craftsmanship. A recent design tie-up between the two has provided the perfect springboard for the trailblazing designer to gain further global recognition.

Rahul Mishra hails from a small village in Kanpur and initially gained a physics degree before carrying out a post-graduate course in design. This then led him to become the first non-European designer to win a scholarship to study at Milan's prestigious Istituto Marangoni; while there he was able to absorb Italy's rich culture and design heritage, which inspired his creations.

"From the beginning, I’ve always been inclined to create anything, creative, whether it’s creative writing, sketching. In India when I went to design school, I studied industrial design, because I love creating spaces, furniture and so on. I then got a scholarship to study at Marangoni in Italy; Italy was my first closest exposure to fashion, every day walking down Montenapoleone looking at Italian design and fashion but also global fashion," Mishra tellsTheIndustry.fashion.

"My love and dream of what I’m doing today got ignited at that time and I knew in 2008/2009 when I was going back to India, that I want to come back and maybe start showcasing in Milan or Paris, but I had to be ready for that. I then won the International Woolmark prize, which I won in Milan, and that opened up the world of fashion to me."

The world of fashion certainly did open up and Mishra's vision of showcasing Indian designs on a global platform came to pass in an historic way after he became the first Indian designer to be invited to show at Paris Couture Fashion Week (a closed shop to all but a select few), alongside the likes of Dior and Chanel. His couture creations, which major on intricate embroidery and beading, have been seen on globally renowned celebrities including, among many others, Shilpa Shetty, Selena Gomez, Zendaya, Kelly Rowland and even Facebook founder Mark Zuckerberg.

This new project will raise his profile even further. It brings a new dimension to Tod's, which is known for its pared back silhouettes and considered designs. Mishra has taken those silhouettes and added his luxurious embroidery. Timeless Gommino driving shoes have been transformed into designs worthy of the red carpet under Mishra's hands while the Timeless Cross-body bag would now make the perfect accompaniment to one of his own couture creations.

Men's loafers, which also come in a backless style, have also been elevated and are perfect for the menswear consumer who is looking to add that element of surprise and luxury to their look. As well as attracting Mishra's followers from his home market, these designs will also appeal to the younger luxury consumer who is more experimental in style and less wedded to the big name houses.

Mishra says his approach to luxury has always been about producing something that endures and allows the wearer to express themselves and to appreciate the craftsmanship in what they are choosing to buy and wear. In a world where luxury has been placed under the spotlight for hiking prices and compromising on quality, his approach is refreshingly honest and his signature embroideries are as key to his philosophy as they are to his aesthetic.

"While I was discovering the power of fashion I saw it was a powerful tool, seeing fashion not as an idea of consumption but as creation and a way to allow people to participate more. 

"That is where i started enjoying embroideries, slower processes because it created work for the people and for society in India as a country. It also became really important to me to tell stories about India through my clothes. Through fashion you can also carry forward an Indian aesthetic because modern Indian aesthetics can also stand a good chance of becoming a global aesthetic," he explains.

In common with Tod's, craftsmanship will always be at the centre of his world and he is passionate about supporting workers in the industry. "Since the nascent years of Rahul Mishra Couture, I envisioned it as a craftsmanship-based couture label. Our hand embroidery techniques, rooted in India, now support over 2,000 fashion workers, including embroidery artisans, weavers, and tailors.

"Our design house operates on the philosophy of the 3 E’s - Environment, Employment, and Empowerment, viewing luxury through a lens of participation, not just consumption. Each piece at Rahul Mishra Couture is made in India, for the world, echoing Tod’s ideology," Mishra says.

When it came to the Tod's collaboration, while the embroideries are elaborate, the approach was very much less is more. Only a select number of key styles are included and they have been created to be treasured and worn for years to come. Prices range from £915 for shoes to £2,300 for a bag, which, when compared with other luxury brands who are charging far more for the most basic designs, does not seem unreasonable. And these products are far from basic.

"This collaboration is special. We developed a limited-edition capsule for a global clientele who values our brand's ethos alongside high-end offerings. We combined extensive fashion knowledge, innovative developments, and artisanal mastery, drawing inspiration from nature, our constant muse, crafting classic in-house motifs and the distinctive foliages synonymous with my designs. The partnership between Rahul Mishra and Tod’s expresses Italian elegance and intricate Indian craftsmanship," Mishra says.

As such, he won't be drawn on which piece he loves the most. "I believe that every product is a pièce de résistance. It is unfair for me to pick one, as each of the designs was created with the same love and intention," he says. If only all luxury was like this.

Rahul Mishra's collection for Tod's is available now with prices ranging from £915 to £2,310.