TheIndustry.fashion Team
23 February 2025
As the weekend comes to a close, London Fashion Week wages on. While flocks of fashiongoers dashed across the capital city, more of Britain's best have taken centre stage to showcase their autumn/winter collections. Sinead Gorey presented ensembles fit for the walk of shame, while Annie's Ibiza created looks for a Renaissance ballroom and Roksanda showcased sculptural silhouettes inspired by Phyllida Barlow. Here is TheIndustry.fashion's cheat sheet on the top shows of the weekend. Chet Lo fashioned his pointed knitwear into evening gowns at London Fashion Week. Known for his avant-garde, textural and tactile designs, the Asian-American designer reinterpreted classical East Asian motifs and incorporated them into his AW25 collection. Lo, decided to "confront the colonialist Western interpretation of Asian art", reinterpreting chinoiserie patterned fabric through his own perspective. Entitled ‘Modern Antiquity’, the collection transformed these classical motifs into modern and authentically Asian designs. The designer took striking prints, such as tiger stripes, and distorted them. Alongside animal motifs, he also took the cherry blossom’s floral formation and morphed them into clouds; blurring the boundaries between varying natural forms. As usual, Lo’s signature textures dominated the collection, with his iconic merino wool spikes, intricate woven pleating and plush knitted techniques creating three-dimensional floral patterns through shape as opposed to print. The collection embraced depth and structure through both its fabric, form and its symbolism. The palette consisted of plum purples, berry reds, muted sage and charcoal greys. While Lo’s looks are quintessentially cool, his hooded knitwear, collared jumpers and floral printed ties leant into the preppy knitwear trends of the moment. Meanwhile, his Nineties style evening wear featured slinky openbacks and square necklines in the fashion designer's signature pointed wool pouring into the runway. His collection successfully reclaimed the narrative of chinoiserie, turning age-old Western interpretations into powerful modern statements of Asian artistry. This season, Sinead Gorey looked to ‘the day after the night before’ as a source of inspiration - when hangovers are the order of the day and fast food is the only option on the menu. The British designer channelled accidental elegance through ensembles haphazardly put together as the wearer steps outside to face the walk of shame. "I’ve been looking at myself and what I would wear," said Gorey. "It’s a reflection of the stage I’m at in my life, mixing elements from Sinead Gorey, the brand, and Sinead Gorey, the person." The collection was a whirlwind of office chic meets after-hours glam, and it had us all ready to hit the dance floor straight from the boardroom. Think tailored suiting with plunging collars and sleeveless cuts - ideal for those who need to go from board meetings to bar-hopping without breaking a sweat. Grab your KFC snack box, fire off that last email, and slip into a chainmail number or a glittering train that’ll have you making an entrance. This season, it’s all about styling for the wild side. Flashy pieces sneak beneath Del Boy faux furs or snuggle into winter Macs, with built-in pockets perfect for lippy and a 20-deck- who needs a clutch when you’ve got a whole outfit to work with? Like the women she dresses, Gorey has grown up but her wild streak is intact. Annie Doble, the founder of vintage treasure trove Annie’s Ibiza, brought glitz and glamour through an array of retro finds to London Fashion Week. Doble was inspired by the Renaissance period of 15th-century Italy, a time of artistic innovation and strength. The collection channelled the feminine strength of Joan of Arc, Catharine Sforza and the enduring grace of women throughout history. It showcased a modern renaissance of gothic glamour and battle-inspired armour drenched in her Doble’s iconic sparkles, with hooded silver dresses, heavily embellished capes and metallic accents evoked Joan of Arc’s gallant armour. The runway was awash with delicate embellishments, a voluptuous bridal-esque gown made from vintage lace with a Victorian bustle, tapestry dress details, waist-cinching corsetry (an Annie’s Ibiza signature) and – of course – plenty of beads and sparkle. Sustainability is a core pillar of Annie’s Ibiza’s design philosophy, with the collection incorporating deadstock, recycled, vegan and natural materials, including organic cotton and seaweed. It was a simultaneous celebration of both history of future. Helen Anthony’s Fall/Winter 2025-26 collection was a masterclass in duality, channelling the essence of Gemini with pieces that beautifully balanced opposing forces. Tradition met modernity, structure flirted with fluidity and craftsmanship soared to new heights. The showcase was all about contrasts—each garment a testament to the interplay of bold textures and tailored precision, telling a story of balance in every stitch. Hand-knitted pieces made from locally sourced British yarn stood out, connecting customers to the farms where the fibres come from. Meanwhile, faux furs were manmade - a true masterclass is sustainability. Luxe cashmere and wool added richness, while hand-embroidered details gave everything an artisanal touch. The excitement didn’t stop at the runway—Helen Anthony’s new flagship store on Conduit Street in Mayfair was unveiled as a creative hub, a space to fully immerse in the brand’s world of quality, sustainability and forward-thinking design. With this collection, Helen Anthony has once again proven that luxury and responsibility can not only coexist, they can thrive. Roksanda Illincic brought stand-out colour blocking, modern cuts and sculptural silhouettes to the runway this season. Sharp lines were apparent alongside sumptuous heavy grey knits, oversized blazers and pinstriped wool capes. But it was not all long-lined neutrals. Roksanda’s partywear stole the show with loose thread fringing, large disco sequins and vivid contrasting silks. The collection was inspired by Barlow’s use of repurposing discarded items, which helped her explore fragility, impermanence and physicality, creating work that feels in constant motion. Ilincic evoked Barlow’s use of fabrications such as cardboard, tape and paint. Texture, colour and tactile experimentation took centre stage, featuring unconventional fabrics from fringe-spiked raffia to fil coupé tapestry and oversized sequins. Roksanda’s signature dresses revealed their inner construction, while sharp, oversized tailoring was complemented by elegant organza panels that introduced a refined, feminine softness. Constructed from negative spaces around the pattern pieces, dresses blurred the lines between sculpture and garment.Chet Lo brings knitted evening wear to the runway
Sinead Gorey: Fashion with a side of fries
Annie’s Ibiza presents a party-perfect collection
Opposites attract at Helen Anthony's LFW show
Roksanda delivers sculptural silhouettes inspired by British artist Phyllida Barlow