LFW AW25: Roksanda delivers sculptural silhouettes inspired by British artist Phyllida Barlow

Roksanda Illincic’s autumn/winter 2025 collection brought sculptural silhouettes and tactile designs to the runway.

The Serbian-born, London-based designer established her brand in 2005, rapidly becoming known for her bold, smart and sculptural approach to womenswear.

Roksanda’s client base include the Princess of Wales, Anne Hathaway and Cate Blanchett as her sophisticated, sleek yet vibrant designs are fit for royals and Hollywood A-listers alike.

Ilincic’s high end fans are an untimid class of women who do not necessarily need pointers to her inspiration.

They are into her vibrant colour sense, revel in her extravagantly offbeat volumes and abstract drapes and appreciate the print-craft textures she wraps into her clothes.

And her following will undoubtedly be thrilled with this latest collection.

Inspired by the British sculptor Phyllida Barlow, the show closed with a monologue of Barlow stating: "Space is malleable, it’s a material, it’s not just an empty vacuum."

The runway didn’t stray far from Ilincic’s creative roots, featuring stand-out colour blocking, modern cuts and sculptural silhouettes.

Sharp lines were apparent alongside sumptuous heavy grey knits, oversized blazers and pinstriped wool capes.

But it was not all long-lined neutrals.

Roksanda’s partywear stole the show with loose thread fringing, large disco sequins and vivid contrasting silks.

Sustainability has always been at the core of Ilincic’s design philosophy.

This collection was inspired by Barlow’s use of repurposing discarded items, which helped her explore fragility, impermanence and physicality, creating work that feels in constant motion.

Ilincic evoked Barlow’s own use of fabrications such as cardboard, tape and paint.

Texture, colour and tactile experimentation took centre stage, featuring unconventional fabrics from fringe-spiked raffia to fil coupé tapestry and oversized sequins.

Roksanda’s signature dresses revealed their inner construction, while sharp, oversized tailoring was complemented by elegant organza panels that introduced a refined, feminine softness.

In quintessential Roksanda style, there was a celebration of colour, delving into what lies beneath its surface, using dripping threads and cut outs.

Constructed from negative spaces around the pattern pieces, dresses blurred the lines between sculpture and garment.

With a sustained focus on space and form, there was no better venue than the Space House in central London, designed by architect Richard Seifert, this brutalist and minimal backdrop resonates with Roksanda’s strong and sculptural design philosophy.