The Interview: How Helen Anthony's Creative Director 'broke the rules' of fashion this LFW

Just two days before Helen Anthony's London Fashion Week show, TheIndustry.fashion sat down with Naeem Anthony, its Creative Director, to delve into his creative genius. Said creative genius Anthony created manmade fur for AW25, to prove luxury and sustainability can not only coexist but thrive. 

Helen Anthony took to LFW in September 2021 and has been showing in the capital city ever since. The brand has become renowned for its contemporary approach to classic tailoring. Anthony isn't afraid to break the mould, adding modern flare via prints of vibrant colours to his collections season after season.

Anthony explained: "I started at a very young age – about seven years old. My grandmother Helen - the brand’s namesake – taught me to sew and the difference between fabrics. Through her teaching, I came to know and appreciate yarns, tweeds and mills".

This is not just where Anthony's admiration for yarns and fabrics came to life, but so did his passion for sustainability.

When asked to describe Helen Anthony in three words, the designer said "Freedom, craftsmanship and diversity", which is exactly what the AW25 collection exuded.

Last night, in the Londoner Hotel's luxury ballroom, where Coracho Tequila was free-flowing, Helen Anthony put on a masterclass of duality. Amongst fashion weekgoers, the luxury brand channelled the essence of Gemini with pieces that beautifully balanced opposing forces.

In the designer's words, "It is about the dualities in life - the yin and the yang - nature vs human innovation". This sentiment inspired the tailored coat made up of contrasting black and white blocking.

The brand’s identity is rooted in the materials and patterns it chooses. For this collection, dubbed 'Gemini',  the patterns and materials reflected the duality at its core. Anthony said: "We're mixing up unexpected pairings. But, our ethos remains true to our core, we're always British-made with superior craftsmanship and use sustainably made fabrics from British mills".

Tradition met modernity, structure flirted with fluidity and craftsmanship soared to new heights, but the contrasting message remained the same. Each garment is a testament to the interplay of bold textures and tailored precision, telling a story of balance in every stitch.

Of course, Helen Anthony's signature tailoring anchored the collection, But, because he knows the rules of tailoring, he's not afraid to break them.

Hand-knitted pieces made from locally sourced British yarn stood out, connecting customers to the farms where the fibres come from. Meanwhile, faux furs were manmade - a true masterclass is sustainability. Anthony said: "We’ve taken traditional animal fur markings and produced them in manmade fibres".

Luxe cashmere and wool added richness, while hand-embroidered details added an artisanal touch throughout the collection.

The excitement didn’t stop at the runway - Helen Anthony’s new flagship store on Conduit Street in Mayfair, where the AW25 collection will be available to purchase later this year, was unveiled as a creative hub. The hub will be a space to fully immerse in the brand’s world of quality, sustainability and forward-thinking design.

Moving forward, the brand also wants to grow and harness its sustainability. Anthony also said he's committed to establishing e-commerce on a global scale as well as opening more brick-and-mortar stores.