Fashion’s environmental gains offset by increased production

Fashion brands and retailers signed up to WRAP’s (Waste and Resources Action Programme) voluntary scheme, Textiles 2030, have shown “significant reductions” in carbon emissions (-8%) and water use (-9%) per tonne, according to its annual report for 2023-2024.

WRAP attributes these improvements to switching to less impactful fibres, circular business model pilots and collaborations, and record levels of textiles collections.

However, the advancements have been cancelled out by increased production of 10%, resulting in only a 0.2% reduction in signatories’ overall carbon footprint and a 1.2% increase in their water footprint.

While WRAP attributed higher production rates, in part, to a population growth of 2.2%, it says these figures highlight “the need to address spiralling unsustainable levels of production”.

Catherine David, director of behaviour change and business programmes, WRAP, says: “Overall, the pace and scale of change is insufficient. If we are to get back on track to hit the 2030 targets, it’s time now to move beyond low-hanging fruit and delve into fundamental transformations. The industry must address overproduction and consumption and take advantage of all opportunities to reduce its impacts.”

Opportunities include offering customers preloved clothing resale, takeback schemes, rental models, and repair services. Revenue from peer-to-peer resale platforms grew by 9.7% according to WRAP’s Textiles Market Situation Report 2024, which also estimates that there are £30 billion worth of products “sitting unused in UK wardrobes” with re-commerce expected to grow by 500% in the next five years.

In 2023, WRAP developed a Circular Design Toolkit for Fashion and Textiles? in collaboration with Textiles 2030 signatories to offer a consistent framework and practical support for design teams.

WRAP is currently working with the Leeds Institute of Textiles and Colour (LITAC) on a three-year project to create industry-first product specific benchmarks for durability. The project, which explores both physical durability and the lesser-researched concept of emotional durability, will conclude in 2025.

Launched in 2021, Textiles 2030 is the 10-year voluntary agreement for the UK fashion and textiles industry, uniting the sector behind science-based targets and helping to deliver a circular and sustainable textiles economy. Signatories include John Lewis, Primark, M&S and Tesco.