Hollywood’s 16 Hottest Power-Lunch Spots Right Now

Reality bites: Hollywood lunching just isn’t what it used to be. Thank the pervasiveness of video meetings, the persistence of remote work and the dwindling of expense accounts. 

While some standbys remain stalwart (Toscana, Hamasaku, The Polo Lounge), many industry-favored restaurants have of late abandoned the midday game, from Spago and Mr Chow to Pizzeria Mozza and Musso & Frank. Who can blame them? After all, their gossamer-thin operating margins, already decimated a generation ago by a town that quiet-quit its day drinking, are now contending with sharply rising labor costs, too.

The new contenders, debuting over the past few years, have no tablecloths. They can’t comprehend the notion of reservations. Hundred-dollar-plus table orders are often made at the counter. And yet: They’re drawing devoted crowds. Time will tell, but one might just become this generation’s answer to the late greats — Ago and Ammo, Kate Mantilini and Barney Greengrass. Which is to say, a classic.

Mae Malai

The new strip mall noodle house in culinary-competitive Thai Town is a quick trip from Netflix, Paramount, Technicolor and more. Awarded Michelin’s Bib Gourmand designation, it leans into the ambiance of zero ambiance. Boat noodles are the specialty. Nota bene: No reservations; there may be a line. 5321 Hollywood Blvd.

Civico

Yes, everyone loves Italian American nostalgia nook Little Dom’s. But its new Los Feliz neighbor, focused on Calabrian specialties, is more versatile, offering hearty paninis and pastas along with plenty of gluten-free and vegan options — plus a nonalcoholic cocktail list. (Look for the No-groni.) 2064 Hillhurst Ave.

Bar Sinizki

Where your Eastside client would prefer to meet. It’s Vienna-by-way-of-Prague along a busy stretch of Atwater Village. Inside, it’s a vibe: globe lights, checkered floor, rounded bar. The bill of fare runs from tartines, baguettes and salads to a burger on a Bub & Grandma’s bun. 3147 Glendale Blvd.

Belle’s

A new-school delicatessen with a decidedly old-school vibe in Highland Park. Its service style is antithetical to cranky Canter’s. There’s an ode to the Langer’s No. 19 pastrami, plus sweet noodle kugel, scallion latkes, a pickle plate, matzo ball soup and a schnitzel sandwich with marinated cabbage on griddled challah. 5022 York Blvd.

Lorenzo

The tiny Beverly Hills spot is justly hailed for its eponymous Florentine-style sandwich: mortadella, parmigiano pate, toasted pistachios, roasted red bell peppers. It’s an absolute must-order. But don’t miss the sleeper-hit gnocchi with ragu. The adjacent city parking lot makes for easy, in-out meetings with denizens of the Golden Triangle. 9529 S. Santa Monica Blvd.

Dante

One of the few lush, lean-back lunch experiences to debut since return-to-work mandates, Dante offers panoramic views of Beverly Hills and beyond from the top of the Maybourne hotel. The menu is mostly Italian, heavy on pizzas. Defy the workday teetotalers and pair your order with Dante’s gotta-have-it signature cocktail, the Garibaldi (Campari with whipped orange juice). 225 N. Canon Drive

Iki Nori

It’s walk-in only around the 12-seat bar at this much-admired new Hollywood answer to L.A. hand roll king Kazu Nori. Beyond those rolls (including premium options like the A5 Wagyu) there’s crispy tuna tacos, mushroom soup, mochi ice cream and natural wine. 6464 Sunset Blvd.

Little Fish

You’ll find mushroom congee and smoked whitefish tartines at this jazzed-up Echo Park joint. But the reason that your Eastside friends want to meet you here is to bite into the much-talked-about fried fish sandwich: Pacific striped bass with pickles and a slice of melted American cheese on a potato roll with Kewpie mayo. 1606 Sunset Blvd.

Burgette

The folks from Santa Monica’s neighboring Bar Monette have Frenchified what had been the all-American burger spot Stout. It’s a short menu of smashed Wagyu patties, Brunoise-cut onions, gribiche aioli and, of course, Brioche buns. This is heavy stuff, not for the diet-minded or those trying to get anything done in the afternoon. 111 Santa Monica Blvd.

Café Telegrama

The folks who operate moody, buzzy Etra next door are now doing amped-up daytime basics (the ham and cheese sandwich is prosciutto cotto and gruyère) at this low-key option in the burgeoning gallery district of Melrose Hill just east of the Paramount lot. 737 N. Western Ave.

Origin BBQ

You’ll eat too much and likely experience the effects. Your clothes will be suffused with the scent of barbecue afterward. The cost puts the place firmly in the expense account category. But you’ll have no qualms. This new Koreatown player is super dialed-in, and the staples like corn cheese and brisket hotpots are best in class. 3465 W. 6th St.

Broadway Cuisine

You won’t regret it, Jake, it’s Chinatown: the ideal choice for an under-the-radar, out-of-the-way dealmaking or poaching lunch. The sprawling dining room, formerly the site of the legendary Plum Tree Inn, boasts a 242-item menu of Cantonese and Chinese American dishes, from moo shu pork to egg foo young. 913 N. Broadway

Ditroit Taqueria

After checking in on that downtown L.A. production shoot, head over to this secluded Arts District taqueria from the Mexico City chef behind Pujol and NYC’s Cosme. It’s a do-no-wrong taco menu. Other highlights here are the fish flautas, esquites, tamales and perhaps the best-in-town churro. 2117 Violet St.

Crudo e Nudo

Be forewarned, this south Santa Monica raw bar and wine shop is an order-at-the-counter situation, but it’s chic — promise! The spendy options run from the eponymous Italian dishes of dressed fish to uni taco bites, caviar nachos and prawns a la plancha. Dogs allowed on the patio. 2724 Main St.

Sobar

The specialty at this Del Rey spot midway between the Sony lot and Venice creatives is light, cool soba noodles made in-house. Accompanying apps range from lightly fried tofu and slow-cooked duck breast to Kyoto-style egg omelettes. Side note: These studiously authentic Japanese buckwheat noodles are gluten-free. 12404 W. Washington Blvd.

The Brothers Sushi

There have been recent, welcome Westside expansions to Santa Monica and Culver City. But the original, lauded Woodland Hills location just off the 101 freeway is the clutch necessity when finding yourself deep in the West Valley at high noon. The lunch specials, including a dozen-course omakase, are reasonably priced. 21418 Ventura Blvd.

This story appeared in the Oct. 30 issue of The Hollywood Reporter magazine. Click here to subscribe.