How Fragrance Maestro Francis Kurkdjian Made The Whole World Fall In Love With Perfume

French perfumer Francis Kurkdjian. Image: Supplied.

Francis Kurkdjian doesn’t do ordinary. He never has. Few other perfumers have contributed to the seismic shift in the perfume industry over the past two decades. From crafting Jean Paul Gaultier’s Le Male – a fragrance that redefined masculinity in a bottle – to orchestrating the olfactory phenomenon that is Baccarat Rouge 540, Kurkdjian has done what wildly few other perfumers have succeeded in doing: successfully straddle the invisible divide between commercially successful with the more clout and artistic-oriented niche market. 

Is the secret to his success that he personally sees no such divide between the two? Perhaps. That and a steadfast faith in his own vision rather than what’s dictating either market in sales or popularity.

“I don’t follow trends,” he tells GRAZIA. “They disappear as quickly as they appear. I want to surprise my audience, not give them what they expect…I express what I feel, my personal emotions. It’s not about trends. It’s about my vision of the world.”

When Kurkdjian first launched his eponymous house back in 2009, it was, says Kurkdjian, the first contemporary fragrance House named after its perfumer and founder. 

The iconic Baccarat Rouge 540 has reached cult status among both men and women. Image: Supplied

“When I met Marc Chaya, CEO, and we cofounded the Maison, the perfumer was relegated behind the scenes,” says Kurkdjian. “The role of the perfumer changed today. Perfumers are now more recognised for their work, their names being put forward by big brands and the industry developed a taste for more creativity. The Maison gives people a modern vision of perfume rooted in the excellence of fine French fragrance making.”

It’s impossible to discuss Maison Francis Kurkdjian without mentioning perhaps its most famous resident, Baccarat Rouge 540. A fragrance so singular it has become shorthand for luxury. Released in 2015 to mark fine crystal brand Baccarat’s 250th anniversary, it was inspired by the alchemy of red crystal, where 24-karat gold fuses with molten glass at exactly 540°C. “Rouge 540 is one of a kind,” he reflects. “It’s contemporary, yet timeless. Every time I wore it during development, the reactions were immediate and overwhelming.”

Today, its bold floral-ambery-woody signature is instantly recognisable—and endlessly imitated. Yet, no copycat has managed to capture the magic. “It has immense volume and presence,” Kurkdjian explains. “Its formula is streamlined, and the ingredients are of the highest quality. It invented a new genre by offering a gourmand profile that feels bright and airy—like crystal itself.”

Few other fragrances can boast the broad fanbase that Baccarat Rouge 540 does. Discussed in depth on both men’s and women’s grooming and beauty articles, it’s worn in equal measure by tradies and socialites alike.

Launched in 2022, 724 was an ode to the energy of the city. Image: Supplied

For Kurkdjian, the success of Baccarat Rouge 540 isn’t simply about its ubiquity; it’s about the way it has resonated with people across the globe. But what sets it apart, he believes, is its coherence. “Baccarat is a strong name, red is the iconic colour of the brand, and the story is totally coherent, starting from the name,” he says. This seamless alignment of concept and execution is what Kurkdjian considers essential to the enduring impact of a scent.

For all the accolades, Kurkdjian’s gaze is firmly forward. His latest project, a reimagining of the beloved APOM, exemplifies this. First launched in 2009 as a duo—one version for men, one for women—it explored identity and connection. Now, APOM returns as a singular fragrance, merging the sunny sensuality of orange blossom with the upscale sophistication of lavender over a soft amber base.

“APOM stands for ‘A Part of Me’ because perfume is a part of yourself you leave with others,” he explains. “I wasn’t fully satisfied with the original iterations. This time, I wanted to bring the best of both into one unified creation.” The result is a fragrance that feels both classic and entirely modern—a conversation between soul and skin.

The new release, APOM. Image: Supplied

This ability to revisit and reimagine is one of the hallmarks of Kurkdjian’s work. He is unafraid to critique his own creations, to push further, to refine. “While the base remains, the new APOM combines the ‘sunny sensuality’ of the feminine scent with the ‘upscale appeal’ of the masculine one,” he explains. “It focuses on emotional connection and personal expression irrespective of gender.”

Kurkdjian’s legacy, however, extends beyond his namesake brand. In 2021 he was appointed as the director of fragrance creation at Dior and now shapes the olfactory future of one of the world’s most iconic houses. “When I create for Dior, it’s a dialogue with Christian Dior himself,” he says. “It’s about understanding the couture house’s history and values and crafting something that speaks to its essence.”

This dual role—artisan of intimate, personal scents and architect of grand, storied legacies—is a balancing act few could pull off. Yet, for Kurkdjian, it’s all part of the same ethos. “Perfume is meant to evoke beautiful emotions, to bring happiness. It’s about creating something that makes people feel seen, understood, elevated.”

One of his first tasks at Dior was the creation of L’Or de J’adore. Image: Supplied

Francis Kurkdjian’s influence reaches beyond fragrance—it’s about reshaping the narrative of what scent can represent. He has carved out a space where perfumes exist as deeply personal artefacts of expression. With Maison Francis Kurkdjian, he has offered not just a collection of scents but a “fragrance wardrobe,” allowing wearers to explore every facet of their personality through olfactory means. “Perfume is a part of yourself you leave with others,” he says, a sentiment that defines his approach to creation.

As he continues to straddle the worlds of his maison and Dior, Kurkdjian’s ethos remains remarkably consistent. He speaks of his work as a balance of instinct and meticulous craftsmanship. “A successful perfume is made by unsurpassable emotions created above all from a great story,” he reflects. It’s this relentless pursuit of both beauty and meaning that ensures Kurkdjian’s creations don’t just linger on the skin – they stay in the memory.