TikTok trends can seem like a dime a dozen these days, but every so often one comes around that makes me stop strolling because it’s actually useful, and most importantly, timeless. French makeup artist Aliénor’s viral videos on “Contrast Makeup Theory” were a recent light bulb moment for me. Her goal when coining the term and explaining it to the masses was to create an easy way for everyone to find the most complimentary makeup for their particular hair color and skin tone.
Honestly, when I first heard the word “contrast,” my eyes started to glaze over. I’m no expert on color theory as it applies to makeup, but before you, too, start to think this is some overly complicated new Lightroom feature, don’t worry. Aliénor’s entire TikTok account is basically dedicated to educational videos for each contrast level, breaking down each one in detail, including what makeup works best for them. Now, this isn’t to say that you can’t wear looks that go against the category you fall under. This theory is just meant to be a helpful empowerment tool if you find that certain colors or styles don’t work for you. Ahead, get an in-depth look at all of the contrast categories, complete with makeup artists’ tips on how to nail the looks.
What Is The Contrast Makeup Theory?
Aliénor breaks it down by explaining that there are three key contrast levels that everyone falls into: low, medium, and high. Contrast, in this case, refers to the difference in value between your face, eyes, eyebrows, and hair. You have “high contrast” if there is a big difference between your features, meaning you have a dark hair, eye, and eyebrow color, but a fairer skin tone. Think celebrities like Zoë Kravitz and Megan Fox. You have “medium contrast” if there is a little difference in value between your features. This one can be a bit trickier to discern, but Aliénor explains it well in this video and provides celebrity references like Zendaya and Jessica Alba for reference. Lastly, “low contrast” folks have very little or next to no difference in value between their features. A perfect example of this last one would be Taylor Swift.
While Aliénor’s videos have gone viral on TikTok, celebrity makeup artist and Neen founder Jeanine Lobell says that, despite its flashy new name, the theory is something makeup artists have been utilizing behind the scenes for years. “Makeup artists, when working with celebrities or other clients, take everything into consideration,” she explains. “The hair, the outfit, skin tone, and the vibe [they] are going for. It's a bit of a bigger picture thing as we can’t just think of the face.” New York-based celebrity makeup artist Maya René also mentions that they utilize this theory by doing a thorough facial analysis beforehand. She says, “When someone sits in our chair, we consider their complexion to determine which makeup look will be most flattering. By paying attention to details like hair color, brows, and facial features, we then can decide how bold or soft their makeup should be.”
Still feel like you’re not fully grasping it? Makeup artists share their advice for each contrast level.
High Contrast Makeup
Lobell says that if you want to balance a high contrast complexion, a deep or dramatic lip, like a raspberry or red shade, is an easy way to do so. Darker eyeshadow looks like a smoky eye also work well for folks with high contrast. If you’re intro more subtle styles or want tips for everyday wear, Lobell also says that blush is key. “A color that will soften the contrast may be the way to go and avoiding a heavily contoured look as this adds sharpness,” she says. “I would say a deep, dirty rose can achieve the contoured effect with some softness like Neen’s Going Rouge in Gem or a brighter but soft pink-plum like Going Rouge in Pose.”
Medium Contrast Makeup
After combing through Aliénor’s videos, I learned that I fall into this particular category. Ah, yes. That’s why every bright red lipstick shade I’ve tried has never quite worked out for me. If you also have a medium difference in value between your features, Lobell says to take full advantage of multi-use products. Particularly, cheek, lip, and eye sticks because they help highlight the natural uniformity of your coloring. A few favorites of mine in this category are Ami Colé’s Desert Date Multistick and Milk Makeup’s Lip + Cheek Stick. As previously mentioned, this contrast level can be a bit tricky since it lies in the middle of the scale, but Aliénor also stresses uniformity for this contrast level. You don’t have to use the exact same shade everywhere on your face, but it does help to use softer ones that are closer in tone. Using darker colors will create a higher contrast. You might have to play around a bit to find what works for you and your own particular coloring.
Low Contrast Makeup
If you have low contrast, Aliénor says a no makeup-makeup look works well with lighter, softer colors. A nude lip and a bit of soft blush complements this contrast level nicely, but don’t worry, that doesn’t mean you can’t also do a bolder look when you feel like it. Lobell shares a tip she uses on her own clients. “When I work with someone like Jessica Chastain, who is low contrast, I like to do a dramatic lip,” she shares. “Her face is best complemented with a stronger lip for that dramatic look. When we want things more subtle, I use [a softer lip gloss] for a more subtle pop of color.”
How Well Does The Theory Work For Black & Brown Skin Tones?
Something I noticed in the comments of Aliénor’s videos is that some people of color feel like this theory doesn’t quite work for them. While Aliénor did a detailed video on contrast theory for deeper skin tones that I personally found helpful as a Brown woman, I asked René for her opinion. Overall, René thinks the theory still holds up well for Black and Brown skin, it just may need some small adjustments. If you have a deep skin tone and are low contrast, she recommends softer shades that blend closer with your complexion, such as richly colored neutrals. If you have a deeper skin tone and are medium contrast, shades like plum, warm bronze, and rich mauve will enhance your features without looking too bold. For those with Black and Brown skin tones who are high contrast, strong and vibrant shades will work well for you. René says a bright red, deep wine, and pops of color on the cheeks are all ways to spice up a high contrast look on deeper skin tones.
Overall, the contrast makeup theory is meant to act as a good jumping off point if you’re a novice or would just like to find what colors complement your complexion the most. You don’t, of course, always have to take its word as gospel — you can wear whatever makes you feel most confident. Even as someone who has been doing their makeup for years, I realized that I still had a lot to learn when I came across Aliénor’s TikTok. Whether you’re a beginner or a more seasoned makeup wearer, there’s something everyone can learn to apply with this theory.
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