In Review 2024: The year's biggest Creative Director moves

From Van Noten to Valentino, Fendi to Ford, luxury houses have had their most mobile year yet when it comes to leading artistic positions.

This year, fashion has done what it does best: taken something too seriously. It is a truth universally acknowledged (or at least attempted) that change is good. However, luxury fashion in 2024 was change gone mad, undergoing a never-before-seen number of Creative Director exits and appointments.

Within the space of just two days last week, John Galliano exited Maison Margiela, Louise Trotter exited Carven to head to Bottega Veneta, and Matthieu Blazy exited Bottega for Chanel. Confused yet?

Ahead of the new year, which will bring with it a host of debut collections for many of these shiny, new Creative Directors, TheIndustry.fashion has collated a list of the key exits and appointments of 2024.

The rumours are true: Alessandro Michele replaces Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino

The first major appointment of the year was back in March, when it was announced that Valentino veteran Pierpaolo Piccioli, who had served the Italian house for 25 years, would be leaving his role as Creative Director, to be replaced by Alessandro Michele.

Michele served as Creative Director for Gucci from January 2015 until November 2022, and before this was relatively unknown. His bold, maximalist designs marked a welcome pivot for the heritage house, an aesthetic he has continued in his new role, although naturally in Valentino's image.

In fact, maximalism is more of a way of live for Michele, who surprise dropped his debut Valentino collection on the final day of Milan Fashion Week Men's in June: the vast resort 2025 collection, entitled Avant les Débuts ('before the beginning'), consisted of a staggering 171 ready-to-wear looks and 93 accessory shots.

Matthieu Blazy confirmed as next Chanel Artistic Director

In June, Karl Lagerfeld's long-time right hand woman Virginie Viard stepped down from her role as Artistic Director at Chanel after five years in the role. Names such as Jeremy Scott, Hedi Slimane and Simon Porte Jacquemus pinballed about the industry ether, until last week (12 December) when it was finally confirmed that French-Belgian designer Matthieu Blazy – currently Creative Director at Bottega Veneta and another name above which question marks hung for the Chanel role – would take the helm at the luxury maison by April 2025, with a first collection scheduled for September.

Belgian Designer Julian Klausner named Dries Van Noten's successor

Also in June, Belgian designer Dries Van Noten announced that he would be stepping down from his role at the eponymous label he founded in 1986, once again leaving a curious fashion industry in his wake.

Van Noten is one of the original members of the Antwerp Six, a prominent group of fashion designers that includes Ann Demeulemeester and Walter Van Beirendonck, who trained at Antwerp's Royal Academy of Fine Arts between 1980–81 under Belgian designer Linda Loppa. He debuted his final collection at Paris Fashion Week in June.

Earlier this month, it was revealed that Van Noten's successor would be 33-year-old Julian Klausner, who has worked at the brand since 2018. Klausner, who will oversee mens and womenswear at the brand, joins a growing cohort of previously little-known designers taking creative leadership at big houses, including Seán McGirr at Alexander McQueen and Stefano Gallici at Ann Demeulemeester.

He is set to make his first mark quietly, unveiling his debut menswear collection through a lookbook during January's menswear presentations. Two months later, he will step into the spotlight with a full runway debut, showcasing a womenswear collection at Paris Fashion Week.

British Modern Couturier Peter Copping leaves Balenciaga to "transform" Lanvin

Two Creative Director moves wasn't enough for June. In the same month, Lanvin appointed Peter Copping as its Artistic Director. The heritage maison had been searching for an artistic director since Bruno Sialelli's exit in April 2023.

Most recently, Copping was Head of Couture and Head of VIP and Special Projects at Balenciaga. His role, effective from September, encompasses full creative lead of Lanvin's men's and womenswear collections.

Givenchy names Sarah Burton as its newest Creative Director

After rocking the industry with her shock exit from Alexander McQueen, one question shrouded the industry: What would Sarah Burton do next?

Well, almost exactly a year after her departure from McQueen in September 2023, it was revealed that she would be taking the reins at Givenchy, responsible for the creative direction of all women’s and men’s collections, with a debut collection slated for March 2025.

Burton was the only assistant Lee McQueen ever had, and when his eponymous brand was in its infancy, the two were responsible for making its collections, with help only from now-executive Trino Verkade and a small group of interns. Burton took over from McQueen as Creative Director after his suicide in 2010.

Haider Ackermann joins Tom Ford as Creative Director

September also brought news that Columbian-born French designer Haider Ackermann would take over at Tom Ford. Ackermann replaces Peter Hawkings, who stepped down after only two seasons as Creative Director. Hawkings was a long-time collaborator of Tom Ford himself, and took up post in April 2023 when Ford exited his eponymous brand.

As well has having his own label, Ackermann was Creative Director at Berluti from 2016-2018 and guest-designed for Jean Paul Gaultier's couture collection in 2023, which received industry-wide acclaim.

Ackermann's first collection for Tom Ford will debut at Paris Fashion Week in March 2025.

Hedi Slimane exits Celine

New month, new major fashion news! Hedi Slimane exited Celine in October after six years as Artistic, Creative and Image Director.

During his tenure at the French house, Slimane transformed the brand's identity, introducing menswear lines and steering its aesthetic towards a more youthful vision than that of his predecessor Pheobe Philo. His leadership significantly boosted the label's commercial performance, with revenues reaching €2.6 billion (£2.2 billion) by 2023. Slimane's collections were not always critically well-received, but achieved considerable financial success and cultivated a devoted following.

Later that day, LVMH-owned Celine revealed that American designer Michael Rider would be taking Slimane's place. Effective early in the new year, Rider will have the entire creative responsibility for all Celine collections, including womenswear, menswear, leather goods, accessories and couture.

The move made sense, considering Rider served as Design Director for ready-to-wear at the brand from 2008-2018, working for a decade under Philo’s leadership, before leaving to serve as Ralph Lauren Creative Director until his new role at Celine. Rider spent four years as a senior designer at Balenciaga in the mid aughts.

Rider will present his first collection for Celine early next year.

Kim Jones to exit Fendi to "concentrate fully" on Dior Men's

British designer Kim Jones announced he would be leaving his role as Artistic Director of Womenswear and Couture at Fendi, allowing him to give his undivided attention to Dior, where he presides as Artistic Director of Menswear.

Jones took over from Karl Lagerfeld in 2020, following his death in 2019. Prior to this, Jones served as the Artistic Director of Louis Vuitton’s menswear collection from 2011 until 2018.

A statement by LVMH, parent company of both Dior and Fendi, said: "Kim Jones has made significant contributions to the brand’s creative legacy, seamlessly integrating his modern and cross-cultural aesthetics with Fendi’s historical heritage."

“Under his leadership, the maison reinvented its ready-to-wear and couture collections, offering an inclusive and innovative approach to fashion that constantly renewed Fendi’s Italian codes. Throughout his four years, Jones’ work was wholly guided by passion and creativity.”

There is talk that Jones' replacement is Valentino's Piccioli.

Bottega Venneta names Louise Trotter as next Creative Director

In another wild day for fashion, it was announced that British designer Louise Trotter was leaving her role as Creative Director for French luxury house Carven after just one season. Within the same afternoon we discovered why. Trotter has been named the new Creative Director of Bottega Veneta, replacing Matthieu Blazy.

Trotter, who revitalised Joseph and served as the first female Creative Director of Lacoste, focuses on creating purposeful pieces that respect both people and the environment, aiming to align with modern luxury values.

Trotter's Bottega will kick off in January 2025.

John Galliano shocks the industry, exiting Margiela

After 10 years in post, John Galliano announced he was leaving Maison Margiela. The British designer took to Instagram last week (11 December), writing, "Today is the day I leave Maison Margiela".

Martin Margiela's eponymous label, known chiefly for its Japanese-inspired, split-toe Tabi shoe, was something of a lifeline for the floundering Galliano, who was mired in controversy after a slew of racist and antisemitic rants in 2011 that led to him being dropped from Dior after 15 years as Creative Director. During his time at the luxury maison, he spawned countless iconic designs, including the newspaper print dress made famous by Carrie Bradshaw in HBO's Sex and the City.

Galliano's post was cryptic enough as regards his next move, stating: "The rumours… Everyone wants to know and everyone wants to dream. When the time is right, all will be revealed. For now, I take this time to express my immense gratitude. I continue to atone and will never stop dreaming."

Who will replace the British designer is yet to be confirmed, but many believe it will be Belgian designer Glenn Martens, who recently exited Y/Project.

Other 2024 Creative Director news to know:

• In February, Zac Posen, whose own label has been sported by the likes of Miley Cyrus and Amal Clooney, was announced as Creative Director of Gap.
• Although her appointment was made in late 2023, Chemena Kamali's first collection for Chloé debuted at Paris Fashion Week in February, presenting a strong vision for the brand, drawing inspiration from the Chloé of the 1970s as well as her own vision of boho fashion.
• Glenn Martens announced his departure from Y/Project in September after 11 years as Creative Director. It is rumoured he may replace Galliano at Maison Margiela.
• Also in September, Uniqlo announced British designer Clare Waight Keller as Creative Director, promising a more feminine approach to the womenswear offer.
• Missoni appointed veteran Alberto Caliri to replace Creative Director Filippo Grazioli in October after two decades in post. Caliri has been at the brand since 1998.
• Joseph appointed Mario Arena as its Creative Director in October. The JW Anderson and Christopher Kane alum's designs will be sold in Joseph stores from October 2025.
• After less than two years at the brand, it was announced in November that Peter Do would be leaving Helmut Lang in 2025 after presenting his final collection for Pre-Fall 2025.